Showing posts with label Point for Peru. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Point for Peru. Show all posts
Organic Market
I am embarrassed to admit that it has taken over nineteen months for me to make it to Lima's organic market. But better late than never, right?
I heard about the market months before when I was living with a friend of mine and had plans to go several times, but it seemed that something else always came up. Finally, this morning it worked out and I went to check it out with a few friends.
Before arriving, I knew that I wanted to buy eggs. Ever since our trip to Ica, when we passed countless chicken farms along the coast, I have been feeling guilty about my non-organic eggs. Not only did I find eggs, but goat cheese and greek yogurt. What a sweet victory because those are difficult finds in Lima. I also bought a few tomatoes and cucumbers with visions of Greek food dancing in my head.
After making our purchases, we walked through the park and found two yoga classes, a tai chi class and what appeared to be a baby and daddy music class. It's a beautiful park that's not overrun by tourists, which is a nice change. Everything felt very community focused and I loved being a part of the community, no matter how briefly.
I think I have found my new Saturday morning routine- produce shopping at the organic market followed by yoga in the park. And lots and lots of Greek food.
Labels:
Food,
Point for Peru
Sun & Sand
Last weekend, Alvaro, myself and Elizabeth (one of my very dear friends from high school) took a weekend trip to Ica, Peru. Elizabeth had been in Peru for about six weeks traveling to various cities and spending time with me in Lima. For her last weekend in Peru, we traveled south to the land of eternal sun and lots of sand.
On Saturday morning we took a small city tour that took us through the main square and past the ruins of the Ica Cathedral that was nearly destroyed in a 2007 earthquake. From there we went to Cachiche, a small village next to Ica that is famous for its historical witches. Several hundred years ago there was a large concentration of witches in this village and the area is full of mystical legends. These original witches passed down their traditions to descendants who still practice healing practices in the village. One of the most interesting parts of the village is the seven headed palm tree. It is believed that several hundred years ago, one witch put a curse on this tree saying that if the seventh head ever grows, the city of Ica will be destroyed. To prevent this from happening, the seventh head is ceremoniously cut every year.
We also visited a Pisco Bodega where we saw the traditional methods used to prepare Ica's famous pisco. After our tour, we tasted several varieties of pisco that are produced on the property.
But the highlight of the weekend was sandboarding! I have heard from several people that sandboarding is the thing to do in Ica and they all were right. I'm a stranger to any kind of extreme sport, so I admit I was fairly nervous before my first ride down the dune. But after surviving the first descent, I couldn't get enough! Not only was the sandboarding amazing, but the view was beautiful. I have never before stood in the middle of desert with only sand as far as my eyes could see. We were fortunate enough to have a clear night and were leaving the dunes around sunset. It was the perfect day, Point for Peru once again!
Point for Peru: Location, Location
I grew up in West Palm Beach, Florida. For most of my childhood, the ocean was no more then ten minutes away from my house. It became a constant fixture in my life and simply blended in with everything around me. That is, of course, until my family moved to landlocked Tennessee and everyone I knew spent their summers "at the lake". Maybe it's not so bad if you grow up with it, but I think lake water is disgusting. It's murky, dingy and there are mysterious slimy things lurking at the bottom. After my first lake experience I realized the true glories of the South Floridian waters.
It's a treat to be once again living along the coast, albeit a completely different one. Unfortunately, this coast doesn't boast golden beaches or warm waters. The sand is grey and the waters are cold, but I don't need the perfect beach day to enjoy coastal living. All I need is to look out my window and see the ocean off in the distance. To spend lazy Sundays walking along the coastal parks. I like looking out and thinking about the thousands of miles of ocean that separate me from land.
But Peru´s great location isn´t limited to its coastline. Within this one country, you can enjoy beaches, mountains, deserts and the jungle. The Andes Mountains divide Peru into three distinct regions: the coast, the mountains and the jungle. Nearly 60% of the country lies within the Amazon basin. This geographical diversity is a source of great pride for Peruvians. The idea of "the coast, mountains and jungle" resonnates in almost everything: talks of food, regional cultures, national poems and great landscapes. All with good reason, it´s a rare thing that you can experience such great diversity all within the same country.
Point for Peru: Empanadas
As if Peruvian food weren't already good enough. Then take said Peruvian food and wrap it in delicious dough. Add a side of lime for some zing and this girl is in culinary heaven. I'm noticing that more and more of my favorite things about Peru are related to food. No shame here, there's a reason why Lima has been named one of the Three Food Cities to Watch, everything is so so good.
We recently discovered an empanada restaurant that makes gourmet empanadas filled with typical Peruvian dishes. They feature my favorites, lomo saltado and ají de pollo, as well as empanadas filled with turkey, steak and even Chinese food.
Besides this recent find, one of my favorite bakeries sells their empanadas in regular size and mini, who doesn't love a mini empanada? It's the perfect quick bite, it's small, fantastic and travels well. Thank goodness spring is just around the corner, I have to walk off these empanada pounds.
948 Chickens
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| Chickens in the fire and on the left: the chicken count |
Last week I exclaimed that we have to do something different for the holiday. I couldn't bear the thought of staying at my apartment watching more episodes of Friday Night Lights, it was time to explore.
We settled on the idea of going to La Granja Azul with some friends of ours. This place translated as, The Blue Farm, is a huge piece of land outside of Lima that is known for serving some of the best pollo a la brasa in Peru. This dish is essentially rotisserie chicken served with fries, a salad and an array of Peruvian sauces, nothing fancy but mmm, mmm good. I've had rotisserie chicken before in the States, but this stuff I simply can't resist. The best part of La Granja Azul? It's all-you-can-eat chicken.
We were seated at a table next to the area where the chickens underwent their final preparations. We watched as the chickens, whole and roasted to a crisp, were removed from the fire and set down on a large table. Then a man who was at least sixty years old, wielded a large chopping knife and cleanly chopped the chickens right down the center. Busy waiters collected the halves and took them to their tables. It was a seamless system and it has to be, La Granja Azul is sprawling.
The restaurant consists of several different large rooms and tiered terraces, I would guess that the capacity is well over a few hundred people. A few hundred people times all you can eat chicken equals a whole lot of chickens. In fact, right next to the large fire is a board that is updated periodically with the number of chickens that have met their delicious fate. When we sat down at 1:15 it was 510. When this picture was taken at 1:30 it was 600. Finally, when we left around 2:45 it was 948. Nine hundred forty eight little chickens had given up their lives for our holiday feast. Where does one buy 948 chickens? What kind of refrigerators do they have for those? And most importantly, who counts all of them?
All in all, it was a successful day. We got outside of the city, spent time with friends and I contributed one chicken to the 948.
Labels:
Point for Peru,
Touristy
Ricky Martin, I heart you.
According to my Twitter feed, Ricky Martin is coming to Lima. This is my earliest memory of his catchy tunes:
And that, ladies and gentlemen, is what I remember from fifth grade. Besides the science experiment making circuits out of aluminum foil and having to swish with fluoride once a week, that's all I've got.
In fifth grade, I was sitting in Mr. P's classroom, which happened to be a portable because my South Florida school was well beyond capacity. I sat on the far right side of the room next to a large bookshelf where we kept a stereo. Some afternoons, if we were simply working on individual work, Mr. P would turn on the radio. This is about the time Ricky Martin's Living la Vida Loca first made its way to the American airwaves. We sat listening to his Latin heartthrob lyrics when suddenly: "...she'll make you take your clothes off and go dancin' in the rain, she'll make you go innnssannneee..."
Before any of us could register these scandalous lyrics, Mr. P ran to the stereo and quickly turned it to a classical radio station. That was it. No more Ricky Martin. From that day forward we never again listened to the Top 40 station, it was classical all the way.What is it with the teen heartthrobs of my youth coming to play a concert in Lima? The Backstreet Boys came in May, which brought me back to the days of my Sony Discman and tanning by my pool in Florida. And now Ricky Martin. I hope that Hanson and 98 Degrees is next. Then all my girl hood dreams will come true.
And that, ladies and gentlemen, is what I remember from fifth grade. Besides the science experiment making circuits out of aluminum foil and having to swish with fluoride once a week, that's all I've got.
at
6:02 PM
Ricky Martin, I heart you.
2011-06-30T18:02:00-05:00
Lady in Lima
Point for Peru|Small Comforts|
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Labels:
Point for Peru,
Small Comforts
Happy Ceviche Day!
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| Photo credit: Absolut Peru |
Peruvians are proud of their Peruvian food, really proud. There is a pride that radiates from a person when they begin to talk about their favorite Peruvian dishes. It's an interesting moment to watch, especially for me, since the culinary specialities from the States are generally an Americanized version of some other country's specialty. Though Southerners love their comfort food and their bar-b-que. And be warned, never mess with a Southerner and their sweet tea.
Yesterday was Ceviche Day. A national celebration of the deliciousness that is raw fish "cooked" in lime juice. Don't let the raw fish line send you away, it's amazing. Absolutely amazing. I'm told that some foreigners don't like ceviche because of the raw fish issue. Well, I love it. Does that add a few more points to my wannabe Peruvian status?
Let's hear it, three cheers to all the fish who give their lives for such a culinary treat. Happy Ceviche Day, Peru! Next up on the food celebration list is Pisco Day at the end of July. I can hardly wait.
If you're making your way to Lima anytime soon, here's Living in Peru's list of the top ten ceviche restaurants in Lima: be sure to check them out.
at
9:41 AM
Happy Ceviche Day!
2011-06-29T09:41:00-05:00
Lady in Lima
Point for Peru|Touristy|
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Point for Peru,
Touristy
Point for Peru: Pharmacy Delivery
One of the best things about Lima is that you can get nearly anything you want via delivery. Craving McDonalds but don't want to leave your house? No problem, get it delivered. Your pet needs to go to the groomer? No worries, they will come and pick up your pet. You're sick and desperately need medicine but don't have the strength to go to the pharmacy? Your wish has been granted: the pharmacy delivers. Best idea ever.
I absolute love the concept of a pharmacy delivery service. So many times in the States I was really sick and unfortunately out of the necessary medication. But the thought of driving to Walgreens was daunting, so I laid on the couch and waited for someone to save the day and bring me medicine. But not in Lima. Just call your local pharmacy, make the request, tell them the amount you will pay with (so you can receive correct change) and just like that- pharmacy delivery!
I am convinced that this could be a fabulous business venture in most US cities.
I absolute love the concept of a pharmacy delivery service. So many times in the States I was really sick and unfortunately out of the necessary medication. But the thought of driving to Walgreens was daunting, so I laid on the couch and waited for someone to save the day and bring me medicine. But not in Lima. Just call your local pharmacy, make the request, tell them the amount you will pay with (so you can receive correct change) and just like that- pharmacy delivery!
I am convinced that this could be a fabulous business venture in most US cities.
at
8:12 AM
Point for Peru: Pharmacy Delivery
2011-06-13T08:12:00-05:00
Lady in Lima
Point for Peru|
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Point for Peru
Point for Peru: Tamales
Before moving to Peru, I had only had tamales at Mexican restaurants. These delicious bundles of chicken and ooey, gooey queso were my image of what a tamale should be. They were served with rice and/or beans and maybe a small salad. I moved to Lima and found a completely different variety of tamales. Peruvians carry an amazing sense of pride in this dish, which can be eaten any time of day. I have become somewhat addicted to a Saturday morning breakfast consisting of a warm tamale, fresh bread, gouda cheese and homemade juice. My previous American addiction to pancakes with peanut butter is now long forgotten.
Peruvian tamales are made using a corn based dough and usually are stuffed with chicken or pork, olives, peanuts and of course, Peru's beloved aji pepper (super spicy, watch out for that one).
There's another similar food called humitas which are close to tamales, but foreigners be aware, Peruvians are serious about the distinction. Humitas are prepared with fresh corn, lard, salt and an ample amount of queso fresco (a creamy, unaged cheese common in LatinAmerican countries). The texture and taste varies slightly between the two but I am just as happy to eat either one.
Mm, so good. And how many days until Saturday?
Labels:
Point for Peru
Point for Peru: Mayo
One thing that Peruvians do really, really well is packaging. Call me crazy for noticing the efficient containers and pretty presentations, but when you're searching for positives, even packaging makes the list.
I wish that I would have thought of packaging mayo like this. It's much simpler and requires less utensils, a win-win situation when you don't have a dishwasher. I hate that moment when you get to the bottom of the mayo jar and fight with your knife and/or spoon to get the last, stubborn bits at the bottom of the jar. This problem is non-exsistent with Peru's ultra handy package. Most likely, there is still some mayo left when the bag appears to be empty, but at least I don't have to see it.
Peru, Nebraska
This video has become an instant sensation in Peru since its release last week. It is a promotional video sponsored by the new Marca Peru campaign that is seeking to promote a true and modern Peru and boosts Peru's international appeal. The video is full of small tidbits of Peruvian food and culture. My Peruvian friends have said that they have started to cry while watching the video because it makes them so proud to be Peruvian. Enjoy!
Labels:
Point for Peru
Big Day in Lima
Today’s the day. After struggling through language barriers, cultural misinterpretations, unmotivated employees and immigration officials, today I will finally begin working in Lima. And of equal if not greater importance, the yoga studio near my apartment is officially open! With my new teaching schedule and unlimited yoga pass, I have the feeling that the next few weeks are going to be much more active than the last four months. I feel like things are falling into place.
To say that I have been dreading this employment would be an understatement. I want a job, yes. I desperately want a job. However, with this particular Institute I feel like I have been thrown around, mislead and forgotten about. I suppose that some of these setbacks are to be expected and I am trying to be positive about that. I am trying to account for the benefit of the doubt and also leave the past in the past. It’s not the ideal job, but it is a job. It’s not full time, but at least it is part time. It is something. I am learning to accept every small victory as one step closer to making this crazy Peruvian dream a reality.
Last week I had a complete meltdown as I feared that I would never, ever find a job in Peru that would pay enough just to cover my bills. Alvaro and I endured a very difficult conversation in which we both admitted, “Maybe this simply can’t work.” That conversation was enough to scare me into a serious job application mode.
The next morning, I scoured the interest for every language job and administrative position I could find. I have serious limitations when it comes to speaking Spanish and getting around Lima, which makes me job search field even more narrow. But I am determined to not give up. I am not ready to simply pack up and head back to the United States. Though it would be easier, it’s out of the question for me.
Instead of being upset about my half of a job, I am thinking of it as Phase 1 complete of my job search. If I could find another part time position somewhere, being independent in Lima might actually be a possibility. I feel like I am in a constant job search and I am trying to keep my motivation and hopes high, because I am afraid that if I burn out, I really will go home.
Having any sort of job, even this job that I was dreading, is helping me to see some hope in all of this. Perhaps I will progress very quickly, and this part time job will turn full time. Maybe I can make more connections here. Maybe another position will fall out of the sky and all my worries will go away. I have to think that it will happen at some point. I am a strong believer that with continued persistence, something good has to happen at some point. I don’t think the universe is so cruel as to continually throw obstacles and difficulty at someone.
So for today, I am teaching English. Four lessons to be exact. The school where I am teaching releases the schedule on a daily basis, so unfortunately, I am not able to tell how many lessons I will be teaching for the rest of the week, but I am hoping that it will be at least four per day.
Although I really am trying to stay positive about my job search, I attribute most of this positive attitude to the opening of the yoga studio. How could I be upset when a beautiful studio just a few blocks from my apartment is now in business? FInally, some time for namaste.
To say that I have been dreading this employment would be an understatement. I want a job, yes. I desperately want a job. However, with this particular Institute I feel like I have been thrown around, mislead and forgotten about. I suppose that some of these setbacks are to be expected and I am trying to be positive about that. I am trying to account for the benefit of the doubt and also leave the past in the past. It’s not the ideal job, but it is a job. It’s not full time, but at least it is part time. It is something. I am learning to accept every small victory as one step closer to making this crazy Peruvian dream a reality.
Last week I had a complete meltdown as I feared that I would never, ever find a job in Peru that would pay enough just to cover my bills. Alvaro and I endured a very difficult conversation in which we both admitted, “Maybe this simply can’t work.” That conversation was enough to scare me into a serious job application mode.
The next morning, I scoured the interest for every language job and administrative position I could find. I have serious limitations when it comes to speaking Spanish and getting around Lima, which makes me job search field even more narrow. But I am determined to not give up. I am not ready to simply pack up and head back to the United States. Though it would be easier, it’s out of the question for me.
Instead of being upset about my half of a job, I am thinking of it as Phase 1 complete of my job search. If I could find another part time position somewhere, being independent in Lima might actually be a possibility. I feel like I am in a constant job search and I am trying to keep my motivation and hopes high, because I am afraid that if I burn out, I really will go home.
Having any sort of job, even this job that I was dreading, is helping me to see some hope in all of this. Perhaps I will progress very quickly, and this part time job will turn full time. Maybe I can make more connections here. Maybe another position will fall out of the sky and all my worries will go away. I have to think that it will happen at some point. I am a strong believer that with continued persistence, something good has to happen at some point. I don’t think the universe is so cruel as to continually throw obstacles and difficulty at someone.
So for today, I am teaching English. Four lessons to be exact. The school where I am teaching releases the schedule on a daily basis, so unfortunately, I am not able to tell how many lessons I will be teaching for the rest of the week, but I am hoping that it will be at least four per day.
Although I really am trying to stay positive about my job search, I attribute most of this positive attitude to the opening of the yoga studio. How could I be upset when a beautiful studio just a few blocks from my apartment is now in business? FInally, some time for namaste.
at
10:26 AM
Big Day in Lima
2011-03-14T10:26:00-05:00
Lady in Lima
Adjustments|Point for Peru|Small Comforts|
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Adjustments,
Point for Peru,
Small Comforts
Islands
Two weekends ago, Alvaro and I spent Saturday morning being tourists. I was nearing the end of my tolerance for Lima and he needed a change of pace from school, work, more school and more work. Thanks to Lima's best touring company, Mirabus, we embarked on an early morning ride to Callao, the port of Lima.
After arriving in Callao, we got off the bus and followed our guide who was carrying a bright red flag. Like children following the line leader, we walked to the end of the port and stood in line. Immediately we were bombarded by street vendors of all sorts, selling sun screen, soda, crackers, hats, binoculars for rent and lemon candies for seasickness. A very tan Peruvian girl wearing a tank top and short denim shorts stood right next to us, yelling, "The trip is four hours, you need these lemon candies for sea sickness!" The very annoying, very demanding family behind us summoned her to their side and bought several candies and at the end of the transaction, without moving down the line, she again yelled her sales pitch. This scene is one of the perfect examples of how Peruvian street vendors are cunning entrepreneurs. During the summer months they sell sunscreen, hats and soda. Around Christmas, you can purchase wrapping paper. In the days leading up to New Years Eve, every vendor is selling yellow leis or plastic glasses, as Peruvians believe that the color yellow will bring you good luck into the New Year. Valentine's Day allows for everything red and I can only imagine what sort of green products will arrive in time for St. Patrick's Day.
Once we boarded the boat, we were directed to the lower cabin and took a seat on the last row. On top of our seats were faded orange life jackets that we instinctively put on the ground. They stayed there until our guide came by and told us that we had to wear them. Reluctantly, we put on the awkward vests and sat back down.
Our boat was to circle four of the largest islands just off the coast of Lima. The first island that we passed, the largest one, is currently the home to the private beach home of Peru's President. Other than the three houses with red roofs that belong to that complex, the island is deserted. I have heard rumors that this is the island that the Peruvian government hopes to turn into a major hotel, casino and resort oasis. Though like most things in Peru, the reality is far, far away.
The second island is now deserted but once housed a jail that was home to Peru's most dangerous criminals. The primitive looking buildings were still in use until the late 1980's when Peru's then President, Alan Garcia (who is currently serving a second term, with a fifteen year recess in between), brought several terrorists to the island to be executed. This controversy, as well as other logistical problems led to the jail's final closure in 1986.
After the boat rounded these two islands, we finally arrived at the main attraction of this whole adventure- the sea lions! In this cluster of several islands is one island that is home to thousands of sea lions. It is an interesting phenomenon that the sea lions have chosen this one island, Besides the neighboring island that is used as the “nursery,” for moms to take their children to learn to swim, hunt and feed, the sea lions only reside on this one particular island.
At this island, the boat stopped for a few minutes and we were allowed to walk to the front to take pictures and get a closer look, I now know that those awkward life vests were specifically for this ten minute period. Immediately upon stepping out of the boat, I was knocked over by a horrendous stench. What I can only imagine was a mix of salt water, dead fish and sea lion excrement, was so powerful that my nose never adjusted to the smell. I was oddly aware of it the whole time. And the noise, the noise! Before arriving at the island I had my questions about the origin of the name “sea lions” but after hearing their roars similar to that on a real lion, I had no further questions. It was a truly amazing site to see thousands of sea lions perched on the island. Those closest to the water were jumping in the freezing waters and then using only their flippers, they began a comical climb back onto the island’s shore.
In between taking photos of the sea lions, I noticed the breathtaking view around me. I was floating in the Pacific Ocean, of the coast of Lima, Peru, and was facing two gorgeous, sand covered islands nestled into the clear blue water. The unusual reality of watching sea lions hit me and I realized, “this isn’t Nashville”. It’s easy to discount living on the ocean when the water rolling into Lima is brown and the shore is full of rocks, but while in the ocean, navigating the waters, I saw a brand new beauty in Lima. Despite all the ugliness and struggles and compromises, at least Lima has sea lions. There’s a serious Point for Peru.
After arriving in Callao, we got off the bus and followed our guide who was carrying a bright red flag. Like children following the line leader, we walked to the end of the port and stood in line. Immediately we were bombarded by street vendors of all sorts, selling sun screen, soda, crackers, hats, binoculars for rent and lemon candies for seasickness. A very tan Peruvian girl wearing a tank top and short denim shorts stood right next to us, yelling, "The trip is four hours, you need these lemon candies for sea sickness!" The very annoying, very demanding family behind us summoned her to their side and bought several candies and at the end of the transaction, without moving down the line, she again yelled her sales pitch. This scene is one of the perfect examples of how Peruvian street vendors are cunning entrepreneurs. During the summer months they sell sunscreen, hats and soda. Around Christmas, you can purchase wrapping paper. In the days leading up to New Years Eve, every vendor is selling yellow leis or plastic glasses, as Peruvians believe that the color yellow will bring you good luck into the New Year. Valentine's Day allows for everything red and I can only imagine what sort of green products will arrive in time for St. Patrick's Day.
Once we boarded the boat, we were directed to the lower cabin and took a seat on the last row. On top of our seats were faded orange life jackets that we instinctively put on the ground. They stayed there until our guide came by and told us that we had to wear them. Reluctantly, we put on the awkward vests and sat back down.
Our boat was to circle four of the largest islands just off the coast of Lima. The first island that we passed, the largest one, is currently the home to the private beach home of Peru's President. Other than the three houses with red roofs that belong to that complex, the island is deserted. I have heard rumors that this is the island that the Peruvian government hopes to turn into a major hotel, casino and resort oasis. Though like most things in Peru, the reality is far, far away.
The second island is now deserted but once housed a jail that was home to Peru's most dangerous criminals. The primitive looking buildings were still in use until the late 1980's when Peru's then President, Alan Garcia (who is currently serving a second term, with a fifteen year recess in between), brought several terrorists to the island to be executed. This controversy, as well as other logistical problems led to the jail's final closure in 1986.
After the boat rounded these two islands, we finally arrived at the main attraction of this whole adventure- the sea lions! In this cluster of several islands is one island that is home to thousands of sea lions. It is an interesting phenomenon that the sea lions have chosen this one island, Besides the neighboring island that is used as the “nursery,” for moms to take their children to learn to swim, hunt and feed, the sea lions only reside on this one particular island.
At this island, the boat stopped for a few minutes and we were allowed to walk to the front to take pictures and get a closer look, I now know that those awkward life vests were specifically for this ten minute period. Immediately upon stepping out of the boat, I was knocked over by a horrendous stench. What I can only imagine was a mix of salt water, dead fish and sea lion excrement, was so powerful that my nose never adjusted to the smell. I was oddly aware of it the whole time. And the noise, the noise! Before arriving at the island I had my questions about the origin of the name “sea lions” but after hearing their roars similar to that on a real lion, I had no further questions. It was a truly amazing site to see thousands of sea lions perched on the island. Those closest to the water were jumping in the freezing waters and then using only their flippers, they began a comical climb back onto the island’s shore.
In between taking photos of the sea lions, I noticed the breathtaking view around me. I was floating in the Pacific Ocean, of the coast of Lima, Peru, and was facing two gorgeous, sand covered islands nestled into the clear blue water. The unusual reality of watching sea lions hit me and I realized, “this isn’t Nashville”. It’s easy to discount living on the ocean when the water rolling into Lima is brown and the shore is full of rocks, but while in the ocean, navigating the waters, I saw a brand new beauty in Lima. Despite all the ugliness and struggles and compromises, at least Lima has sea lions. There’s a serious Point for Peru.
Labels:
Point for Peru,
Touristy
Pirate Market
In the past four months, I have learned a great deal about social norms. In Lima, it’s socially acceptable to arrive over an hour late to a social gathering. Generally speaking, it’s acceptable for men to turn their heads in a full 180º to check out a woman that has just walked by. The most surprising, however, is that it is socially acceptable to buy pretty much everything from a pirate market.
The two biggest pirate markets in Lima are Polvos Rosados and Polvos Azules (Pink Dust and Blue Dust, respectively). These two shopping malls are housed in a large warehouses complete with separate kiosks, snack machines, ATMs, actual shopping bags, business cards and police protection. Unlike the shady fake Louis Vuitton handbag purchases that take place in a dark corner of a New York subway station, pirate markets in Peru are not afraid to stand out. This is particularly obvious by the pink paint covering the exterior of Polvos Rosados.
When Alvaro first took me to Polvos Rosados several months ago, I entered the warehouse and my jaw dropped. I was in disbelief at the sheer number of products available for sale. Backpacks, electronics, movies, CDs, clothes, shoes, pet supplies, books- you want it, they have it. Alvaro goes to the same kiosk every time to purchase movies. Each movie kiosk is equipped with at least one decently sized flat screen TV on which customers can test their movies to check for quality. Our trusty pirated movie salesman can find a movie in a matter of seconds. They sell everything. From the most obscure foreign film to the movies that still haven’t arrived in Peruvian theaters, they have it. This kiosk sells movies for S./5 each, but if you buy four then you get a fifth one for free. About two months ago, Alvaro purchased the second Wall Street movie to watch for a class project. We started to watch the movie, only to discover that it was in black and white and the entire menu screen was in Russian. But no worries, our pirated movie salesman is so honest that he offered to switch out the movie for us at no additional cost. And my copy of Enchanted that wouldn’t play in English? No worries, he switched that one too and even threw in an extra movie for free, to compensate for “our trouble”.
Buying pirated movies in Peru has become so socially acceptable that the it seems ludicrous to buy your movies anywhere else. Video rental stores are non-existent in Lima. Forget Netflix and Redbox, they would be too expensive. Why rent a movie for $1 when you can buy it for $1.60? The movie selection at electronic stores and supermarkets is abysmal and if you were to find the movie you wanted, it would cost you at least $30. In a society in which the middle class has nearly disappeared, buying a movie is simply too expensive for a large majority of Peruvians. Which is why the pirate markets make sense, the movies are cheap, in wide supply and the demand in these markets is greater than in any other. Such a phenomenon has carried over to movie theaters. An adult ticket to a new release on a Friday night costs barely $5, if theaters in Lima were to charge the outrageous prices found in US, no one would go to the theaters. Why pay close to $50 to take your entire family to the movies when you can buy the same movie for less than $2 at Polvos Rosados?
Alvaro interns at one of the largest law firms in Lima and works in the Intellectual Property department. He spends his days writing cases for Adidas, Hello Kitty, Donkey Kong, Juicy Couture, Spongebob Squarepants, Louis Vuitton and Chanel, supporting these companies when knock-offs of their brand make it to the shores of Peru. Last week he went to a raid where he spent the better part of the day counting pairs of fake Chanel earrings to include in the evidence reports. For forty hours a week, he is surrounded by law regarding trademarks and branding, but yet last Sunday we came home from Polvos Rosados with seven movies. When lawyers and police accept something as a norm, I guess everyone else has no choice but to follow.
The two biggest pirate markets in Lima are Polvos Rosados and Polvos Azules (Pink Dust and Blue Dust, respectively). These two shopping malls are housed in a large warehouses complete with separate kiosks, snack machines, ATMs, actual shopping bags, business cards and police protection. Unlike the shady fake Louis Vuitton handbag purchases that take place in a dark corner of a New York subway station, pirate markets in Peru are not afraid to stand out. This is particularly obvious by the pink paint covering the exterior of Polvos Rosados.
When Alvaro first took me to Polvos Rosados several months ago, I entered the warehouse and my jaw dropped. I was in disbelief at the sheer number of products available for sale. Backpacks, electronics, movies, CDs, clothes, shoes, pet supplies, books- you want it, they have it. Alvaro goes to the same kiosk every time to purchase movies. Each movie kiosk is equipped with at least one decently sized flat screen TV on which customers can test their movies to check for quality. Our trusty pirated movie salesman can find a movie in a matter of seconds. They sell everything. From the most obscure foreign film to the movies that still haven’t arrived in Peruvian theaters, they have it. This kiosk sells movies for S./5 each, but if you buy four then you get a fifth one for free. About two months ago, Alvaro purchased the second Wall Street movie to watch for a class project. We started to watch the movie, only to discover that it was in black and white and the entire menu screen was in Russian. But no worries, our pirated movie salesman is so honest that he offered to switch out the movie for us at no additional cost. And my copy of Enchanted that wouldn’t play in English? No worries, he switched that one too and even threw in an extra movie for free, to compensate for “our trouble”.
Buying pirated movies in Peru has become so socially acceptable that the it seems ludicrous to buy your movies anywhere else. Video rental stores are non-existent in Lima. Forget Netflix and Redbox, they would be too expensive. Why rent a movie for $1 when you can buy it for $1.60? The movie selection at electronic stores and supermarkets is abysmal and if you were to find the movie you wanted, it would cost you at least $30. In a society in which the middle class has nearly disappeared, buying a movie is simply too expensive for a large majority of Peruvians. Which is why the pirate markets make sense, the movies are cheap, in wide supply and the demand in these markets is greater than in any other. Such a phenomenon has carried over to movie theaters. An adult ticket to a new release on a Friday night costs barely $5, if theaters in Lima were to charge the outrageous prices found in US, no one would go to the theaters. Why pay close to $50 to take your entire family to the movies when you can buy the same movie for less than $2 at Polvos Rosados?
Alvaro interns at one of the largest law firms in Lima and works in the Intellectual Property department. He spends his days writing cases for Adidas, Hello Kitty, Donkey Kong, Juicy Couture, Spongebob Squarepants, Louis Vuitton and Chanel, supporting these companies when knock-offs of their brand make it to the shores of Peru. Last week he went to a raid where he spent the better part of the day counting pairs of fake Chanel earrings to include in the evidence reports. For forty hours a week, he is surrounded by law regarding trademarks and branding, but yet last Sunday we came home from Polvos Rosados with seven movies. When lawyers and police accept something as a norm, I guess everyone else has no choice but to follow.
at
9:22 AM
Pirate Market
2011-03-01T09:22:00-06:00
Lady in Lima
Culture Shock|Point for Peru|Touristy|
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Culture Shock,
Point for Peru,
Touristy
Peruvian Food
In all of my travels, I have never before been in a city that takes such pride in their food. And Limeans aren’t the only ones noticing the terrific variety of tastes available in Lima, but Food & Wine magazine recently named Lima one of the Three Food Cities to Watch.
Lima sits on the coast of Peru and receives a cold water current that provides delicious fresh fish. Seafood restaurants are scattered throughout Lima, serving dishes such as rice and mixed seafood, fried fish with potatoes and the Peruvian icon ceviche. Traditionally, ceviche is made of raw fish, onions and peppers that then “cooks” in lime juice. A true ceviche is also served with corn and a side of sweet potatoes to help cut the tartness of the fish. Though the raw fish can be unsettling, I have never before had such a light, crisp meal of a hot summer day.
Peru is almost twice the size of Texas and within its boarders contains three distinct climates: the coast, the Andes and the Amazon. Not only does this make for breathtaking sightseeing, one can visit the ocean, endless sand dunes, giant mountains and a lush jungle, all in one country, these different climates also create an array of unique produce. One small part of this variety is that Peru is home to over 400 different varieties of potatoes, which explains why potatoes of all sorts show up in almost every traditional Peruvian meal. Young Peruvian chefs are experimenting with flavors from different climates in order to give Peruvian food a truly unique taste.
When people ask me how I am adjusting to my new life in Lima, I usually respond by telling them that I like the food. This answer then garners a very excited, “Yes, the food! The food is wonderful!” They then go on to ask if I have tried a variety of Peruvian dishes for example: antichucos (cow heart, yes I’ve tried it but now if I eat it with every bite all I can think of is: “heart, heart, heart, heart, heart”), cuy (guinea pig, I won’t be trying this), lomo saltado (beef with onions, pepper and tomatoes in soy sauce, my favorite!) and the list goes on and on. Peruvians have a national pride when it comes to their food and now this reputation has become international.
Over the past few years, several magazines and new organizations have announced that Peru is a new hot spot for “gastronomical tourism,” a fancy term to say “tourism based on food”. Nearly every tour organization has some sort of tour package that brings tourists to the best restaurants in the city, all the way from a five star restaurant down to a hole-in-wall with the best potatoes. When in Peru, there is no shortage of amazing dishes which could keep these foodie tourists occupied for weeks.
The only warning is this: with rice and potatoes served during traditional meals, everyone needs to watch out for the Peruvian 15.
Lima sits on the coast of Peru and receives a cold water current that provides delicious fresh fish. Seafood restaurants are scattered throughout Lima, serving dishes such as rice and mixed seafood, fried fish with potatoes and the Peruvian icon ceviche. Traditionally, ceviche is made of raw fish, onions and peppers that then “cooks” in lime juice. A true ceviche is also served with corn and a side of sweet potatoes to help cut the tartness of the fish. Though the raw fish can be unsettling, I have never before had such a light, crisp meal of a hot summer day.
Peru is almost twice the size of Texas and within its boarders contains three distinct climates: the coast, the Andes and the Amazon. Not only does this make for breathtaking sightseeing, one can visit the ocean, endless sand dunes, giant mountains and a lush jungle, all in one country, these different climates also create an array of unique produce. One small part of this variety is that Peru is home to over 400 different varieties of potatoes, which explains why potatoes of all sorts show up in almost every traditional Peruvian meal. Young Peruvian chefs are experimenting with flavors from different climates in order to give Peruvian food a truly unique taste.
When people ask me how I am adjusting to my new life in Lima, I usually respond by telling them that I like the food. This answer then garners a very excited, “Yes, the food! The food is wonderful!” They then go on to ask if I have tried a variety of Peruvian dishes for example: antichucos (cow heart, yes I’ve tried it but now if I eat it with every bite all I can think of is: “heart, heart, heart, heart, heart”), cuy (guinea pig, I won’t be trying this), lomo saltado (beef with onions, pepper and tomatoes in soy sauce, my favorite!) and the list goes on and on. Peruvians have a national pride when it comes to their food and now this reputation has become international.
Over the past few years, several magazines and new organizations have announced that Peru is a new hot spot for “gastronomical tourism,” a fancy term to say “tourism based on food”. Nearly every tour organization has some sort of tour package that brings tourists to the best restaurants in the city, all the way from a five star restaurant down to a hole-in-wall with the best potatoes. When in Peru, there is no shortage of amazing dishes which could keep these foodie tourists occupied for weeks.
The only warning is this: with rice and potatoes served during traditional meals, everyone needs to watch out for the Peruvian 15.
at
9:14 AM
Peruvian Food
2011-02-10T09:14:00-06:00
Lady in Lima
Point for Peru|Small Comforts|
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Point for Peru,
Small Comforts
Off roading
Off roading.
These are two words that are typically not part of my everyday vocabulary. I am a self-proclaimed, shameless city girl. I would rather spend my day exploring a big city than hiking through the mountains. Not that I don’t think mountains are beautiful and to be appreciated, but I would rather not appreciate them covered in bugs and sweat and cooking food on an open fire. Interestingly enough, I used to struggle with my general lack of interest in all thingsoutdoorsy. I had this nagging feeling that I wasn’t cool enough. Part of my felt like a hypocrite when I pushed for recycling and renewable resources, but would rather spend my day in a museum than on a hike. Sometimes it felt like I didn’t fit into the right kind of Christian because I wasn’t dying to be immersed in God’s great outdoors. But lately I realized that I do love the outdoors. I love beaches of every size, shape and kind and on a beach is where I feel the magnitude of God’s creation. How very logical since I grew up surrounded by beaches, not surrounded by mountains, so naturally I am more inclined to find my peace along the shore.
Surprisingly, this came as great comfort, finally I felt as though I wasn’t outright neglecting the power of creation. But I never was, because I find the most beauty in visual arts: paintings, sculptures, drawings and architecture. All this explains my natural pull to live in the midst of a city. As it turns out, I was never neglecting the power of creation, but rather appreciating it through the work of man. Ok, enough theological aesthetics for one day.
Off roading. I simply don’t do off roading. But I’m in Lima and a friend of a friend of a friend invited Alvaro and I to a beach about thirty minutes south of Lima and I couldn’t turn down such offer. He recommended that if we have a vehicle with four wheel drive, we should bring it, “we’re going off roading” he said.
We met our friends at a small beach town and then followed them fifteen minutes further south on Peru’s biggest highway, the Panamericana Sur. Our caravan made a quick exit from the highway and we found ourselves in a small, Peruvian town. The cars turned right, then left, then right again and in a matter of minutes we found ourselves on an unpaved, bumpy road. Without warning, the only thing we could see in front of us was a cloud of dust kicked up from the SUV before us. The car jumped and bumped and swerved and we blindly followed the trails of cars until we found ourselves at the entrance of the beach. A moment later, all the cars began driving along the sand and Alvaro and I looked at each other with mutual confusion. We tried to follow the other cars, however, our mid-sized SUV stopped just a few feet into the sand. The other cars in our group were outfitted with monster tires that found no match with the sand below. Thankfully, these monster wheels came back for us, deflated the tires and then coached Alvaro on how to get his car out of the sand trap.
On the move again, we drove along the shore, our tires were a mere fifteen feet from the water’s edge. We drove for a solid five minutes until our caravan found its resting spot, clear out of view from every other group at the beach.
Our experienced off roaders dug a hole in the sand, filled it with charcoal and placed a round grill on top- our makeshift grill. We ate crispy chicken, hamburgers and an assortment of Peruvian mystery meats that I am not bold enough to try. Some of the group braved the cold waters but my feet turned to ice immediately after touching the frigid waves, so I chose to stay dry. We spent the afternoon grilling, eating and drinking then played a competitive match of volleyball during sunset.
Peruvian beaches aren’t the Floridian paradise I’m used to. The sand is dark, the sky is gray and most disappointingly, the water is exceptionally cold. Though it wasn’t sunny Palm Beach, this beach was beautiful because it seemed most natural. The area around us was full of mountains and cliffs and the shore was full of birds, undisturbed by human presence. For the first time, I was on a beach and as far as my eyes could see, there was not a single other human being. It felt like I had discovered an unexplored part of Peru, it was just me, the birds, the mountains and the Pacific Ocean.
Getting back to civilization was equally as adventurous. It was getting dark and our new friends kept saying, “Oh yes, we will leave soon.” I have learned that “soon” in Peruvian, doesn’t mean a thing. We waited and waited and as the minutes passed Alvaro became more anxious of finding our way back to the highway. Finally, we found our window of opportunity and decided to take it. We drove along the beach, with only our headlights to guide us and nearly ran into a group of huts along the way. He began to make a u-turn that was scarily close to the water and my typically calm, collected boyfriend was a pile of nerves. I guided us around the huts and finally we found the unpaved road. The road was mostly a straight shot, despite a few forks and detours, and luckily, we made it back to town. After one dead end, I had the feeling that we needed to go right. So we did. We drove towards a large collection of lights, which seemed to be the best option and within minutes discovered we were parallel to the highway. Hooray! We successfully made it off the beach, down a dark paved road, through a small town with few lights and even fewer signs and back to the highway with little delay. Thank you dad for my natural sense of orientation.
We made it back to Lima, both thankful to have survived our first official off roading adventure. We both agreed that it was fun but most likely not something we want to do again. In true city mice fashion, our first stop once in Lima was directly to the car wash.
These are two words that are typically not part of my everyday vocabulary. I am a self-proclaimed, shameless city girl. I would rather spend my day exploring a big city than hiking through the mountains. Not that I don’t think mountains are beautiful and to be appreciated, but I would rather not appreciate them covered in bugs and sweat and cooking food on an open fire. Interestingly enough, I used to struggle with my general lack of interest in all thingsoutdoorsy. I had this nagging feeling that I wasn’t cool enough. Part of my felt like a hypocrite when I pushed for recycling and renewable resources, but would rather spend my day in a museum than on a hike. Sometimes it felt like I didn’t fit into the right kind of Christian because I wasn’t dying to be immersed in God’s great outdoors. But lately I realized that I do love the outdoors. I love beaches of every size, shape and kind and on a beach is where I feel the magnitude of God’s creation. How very logical since I grew up surrounded by beaches, not surrounded by mountains, so naturally I am more inclined to find my peace along the shore.
Surprisingly, this came as great comfort, finally I felt as though I wasn’t outright neglecting the power of creation. But I never was, because I find the most beauty in visual arts: paintings, sculptures, drawings and architecture. All this explains my natural pull to live in the midst of a city. As it turns out, I was never neglecting the power of creation, but rather appreciating it through the work of man. Ok, enough theological aesthetics for one day.
Off roading. I simply don’t do off roading. But I’m in Lima and a friend of a friend of a friend invited Alvaro and I to a beach about thirty minutes south of Lima and I couldn’t turn down such offer. He recommended that if we have a vehicle with four wheel drive, we should bring it, “we’re going off roading” he said.
We met our friends at a small beach town and then followed them fifteen minutes further south on Peru’s biggest highway, the Panamericana Sur. Our caravan made a quick exit from the highway and we found ourselves in a small, Peruvian town. The cars turned right, then left, then right again and in a matter of minutes we found ourselves on an unpaved, bumpy road. Without warning, the only thing we could see in front of us was a cloud of dust kicked up from the SUV before us. The car jumped and bumped and swerved and we blindly followed the trails of cars until we found ourselves at the entrance of the beach. A moment later, all the cars began driving along the sand and Alvaro and I looked at each other with mutual confusion. We tried to follow the other cars, however, our mid-sized SUV stopped just a few feet into the sand. The other cars in our group were outfitted with monster tires that found no match with the sand below. Thankfully, these monster wheels came back for us, deflated the tires and then coached Alvaro on how to get his car out of the sand trap.
On the move again, we drove along the shore, our tires were a mere fifteen feet from the water’s edge. We drove for a solid five minutes until our caravan found its resting spot, clear out of view from every other group at the beach.
Our experienced off roaders dug a hole in the sand, filled it with charcoal and placed a round grill on top- our makeshift grill. We ate crispy chicken, hamburgers and an assortment of Peruvian mystery meats that I am not bold enough to try. Some of the group braved the cold waters but my feet turned to ice immediately after touching the frigid waves, so I chose to stay dry. We spent the afternoon grilling, eating and drinking then played a competitive match of volleyball during sunset.
Peruvian beaches aren’t the Floridian paradise I’m used to. The sand is dark, the sky is gray and most disappointingly, the water is exceptionally cold. Though it wasn’t sunny Palm Beach, this beach was beautiful because it seemed most natural. The area around us was full of mountains and cliffs and the shore was full of birds, undisturbed by human presence. For the first time, I was on a beach and as far as my eyes could see, there was not a single other human being. It felt like I had discovered an unexplored part of Peru, it was just me, the birds, the mountains and the Pacific Ocean.
Getting back to civilization was equally as adventurous. It was getting dark and our new friends kept saying, “Oh yes, we will leave soon.” I have learned that “soon” in Peruvian, doesn’t mean a thing. We waited and waited and as the minutes passed Alvaro became more anxious of finding our way back to the highway. Finally, we found our window of opportunity and decided to take it. We drove along the beach, with only our headlights to guide us and nearly ran into a group of huts along the way. He began to make a u-turn that was scarily close to the water and my typically calm, collected boyfriend was a pile of nerves. I guided us around the huts and finally we found the unpaved road. The road was mostly a straight shot, despite a few forks and detours, and luckily, we made it back to town. After one dead end, I had the feeling that we needed to go right. So we did. We drove towards a large collection of lights, which seemed to be the best option and within minutes discovered we were parallel to the highway. Hooray! We successfully made it off the beach, down a dark paved road, through a small town with few lights and even fewer signs and back to the highway with little delay. Thank you dad for my natural sense of orientation.
We made it back to Lima, both thankful to have survived our first official off roading adventure. We both agreed that it was fun but most likely not something we want to do again. In true city mice fashion, our first stop once in Lima was directly to the car wash.
Labels:
Point for Peru
Pinkberry in Peru
What a glorious day. Last week, while driving through the most chaotic round about in Lima, Óvalo Guiterrez, I noticed the familiar looking logo of Pinkberry affixed to a remodeled store front. Could it be true? Is Pinkberry really coming to Lima? I let out a small shrill of excitement and then in my best very excited Spanish, I tried to explain to Alvaro’s mom why I was so excited. Either my Spanish isn’t good enough or she doesn’t share my love for frozen yogurt, but somehow we weren’t clicking.
I must admit, I have actually never had Pinkberry before (that is until yesterday). I’ve heard of it and know its reputation for being absolutely delicious but unfortunately have never lived in a city with a store. Nashville recently opened its first Pinkberry but unfortunately, I was already in Lima. There is delicious ice cream here, ice cream made of fresh Peruvian fruits that are absolutely heavenly, but I always, always prefer frozen yogurt. Now that Pinkberry has arrived, I am able to get my fix.
Óvalo Guiterrez is the reason I don’t drive in Peru. The picture here makes the area look like a peaceful, Peruvian paradise. Don’t be deceived. Instead of the calm scenario you see below, it’s a disorganized sea of pedestrians and kamikaze taxi drivers. Every time I’m driven through the round about, I unknowingly hold my breath and send up a little prayer to make it through the chaos. Though there are pedestrian crosswalks at each cross street, we take tunnels underneath the round about if we need to walk from one side to another. Cars speed through the round about, without any regard for lanes or right of ways, and no pedestrian is safe from their hurried exit.
This round about is a a prime location for any number of leisurely activities, housing a park, movie theatre, mall, Starbucks, church, grocery store and a number of restaurants. Despite this appeal, I only go there out of necessity, the chaos of Peruvian driving isn’t worth the convenience of one stop shopping, that is, until now. PInkberry is going to help me conquer my fears of the dreaded Óvalo Guiterrez.
I must admit, I have actually never had Pinkberry before (that is until yesterday). I’ve heard of it and know its reputation for being absolutely delicious but unfortunately have never lived in a city with a store. Nashville recently opened its first Pinkberry but unfortunately, I was already in Lima. There is delicious ice cream here, ice cream made of fresh Peruvian fruits that are absolutely heavenly, but I always, always prefer frozen yogurt. Now that Pinkberry has arrived, I am able to get my fix.
Óvalo Guiterrez is the reason I don’t drive in Peru. The picture here makes the area look like a peaceful, Peruvian paradise. Don’t be deceived. Instead of the calm scenario you see below, it’s a disorganized sea of pedestrians and kamikaze taxi drivers. Every time I’m driven through the round about, I unknowingly hold my breath and send up a little prayer to make it through the chaos. Though there are pedestrian crosswalks at each cross street, we take tunnels underneath the round about if we need to walk from one side to another. Cars speed through the round about, without any regard for lanes or right of ways, and no pedestrian is safe from their hurried exit.
This round about is a a prime location for any number of leisurely activities, housing a park, movie theatre, mall, Starbucks, church, grocery store and a number of restaurants. Despite this appeal, I only go there out of necessity, the chaos of Peruvian driving isn’t worth the convenience of one stop shopping, that is, until now. PInkberry is going to help me conquer my fears of the dreaded Óvalo Guiterrez.
at
11:52 AM
Pinkberry in Peru
2011-01-23T11:52:00-06:00
Lady in Lima
Point for Peru|Small Comforts|
Comments
Labels:
Point for Peru,
Small Comforts
Mani & Pedi
My newest obsession is reading food blogs. I graduated from college and now am freed of the stress my impending thesis had on me for the past couple of years. I needed to find something that could become my new project- and I decided upon cooking. It started back in Nashville when I discovered the fabulous Annie’s Eats (love her!) and since my days in Lima are incredibly unstructured, I have spent countless hours exploring the food blogosphere.
This afternoon, however, I simply couldn’t do it. I had to get out of my apartment so I embarked on a small quest (per the recommendation of my expat friend Polly). I walked one block and a half to an adorable coffee place and ordered my coffee to-go then ventured to a local nail establishment that is nothing more than a hole-in-the-wall.
The salon has three pedicure chairs that are placed uncomfortably close together at the back of the room. I sat down in between two Peruvian girls, balancing my coffee and handbag as I took off my sandals and felt unusually clumsy in the small quarters. Within seconds the nail attendant asked what color I wanted, I had to ask her to repeat the question and then stumbled through telling her, “something similar to what I have now”.
The girl on my left spent the majority of my pedicure staring at me, or so it felt like she did. While I could feel her gaze I watched the attendant pamper my feet and then realized she didn’t cut my nails short enough. I debated whether or not to tell her and almost decided to just let it go until I thought about Alvaro’s reaction to my lazy Spanish. It didn’t help that I am already self conscious and now I was going to have to ask her to cut my nails while this Peruvian girl listened to my American accent dance across every syllable. I gave in and asked her. She redid them but I could tell that I was going to have to ask again.
What followed was a Spanish lesson in my head. Is there another way I can ask her? And what gender do I use for the nail color? I see the color across the room, but I can’t remember the word for “row” or even “bottom”. Why didn’t I learn the words for “fourth” and “fifth”? As I pieced together nouns and verbs, I could feel the Peruvian girl’s stare and it felt as if she could see the sentencing forming incorrectly in my brain. I wanted to scream out, “I know your Spanish is perfect, but I’m trying! I’m actually quite friendly and well spoken in English!” The most frustrating thing about not speaking the language fluently is that I feel like I am never able to show my true personality.
The attendant finally finished and walked across the room to grab two nail colors to choose from. Neither one was particularly what I wanted, but at this point I felt defeated and simply chose the pinker of the two. Immediately after I pointed to my choice, the aforementioned Peruvian girl said, “I think that the one on the bottom row, third one from the right is much better.” She was right, it was perfect.
The attendant started to apply the polish and I looked to my left and said “Gracias.ˆ Her response? “You’re welcome.” Her kindness left me feeling guilty about the previous thirty minutes I had spent being internally annoyed with her. Now I think that her stares were because she was jealous of my American accent just as I was jealous of her beautiful Spanish.
This afternoon, however, I simply couldn’t do it. I had to get out of my apartment so I embarked on a small quest (per the recommendation of my expat friend Polly). I walked one block and a half to an adorable coffee place and ordered my coffee to-go then ventured to a local nail establishment that is nothing more than a hole-in-the-wall.
The salon has three pedicure chairs that are placed uncomfortably close together at the back of the room. I sat down in between two Peruvian girls, balancing my coffee and handbag as I took off my sandals and felt unusually clumsy in the small quarters. Within seconds the nail attendant asked what color I wanted, I had to ask her to repeat the question and then stumbled through telling her, “something similar to what I have now”.
The girl on my left spent the majority of my pedicure staring at me, or so it felt like she did. While I could feel her gaze I watched the attendant pamper my feet and then realized she didn’t cut my nails short enough. I debated whether or not to tell her and almost decided to just let it go until I thought about Alvaro’s reaction to my lazy Spanish. It didn’t help that I am already self conscious and now I was going to have to ask her to cut my nails while this Peruvian girl listened to my American accent dance across every syllable. I gave in and asked her. She redid them but I could tell that I was going to have to ask again.
What followed was a Spanish lesson in my head. Is there another way I can ask her? And what gender do I use for the nail color? I see the color across the room, but I can’t remember the word for “row” or even “bottom”. Why didn’t I learn the words for “fourth” and “fifth”? As I pieced together nouns and verbs, I could feel the Peruvian girl’s stare and it felt as if she could see the sentencing forming incorrectly in my brain. I wanted to scream out, “I know your Spanish is perfect, but I’m trying! I’m actually quite friendly and well spoken in English!” The most frustrating thing about not speaking the language fluently is that I feel like I am never able to show my true personality.
The attendant finally finished and walked across the room to grab two nail colors to choose from. Neither one was particularly what I wanted, but at this point I felt defeated and simply chose the pinker of the two. Immediately after I pointed to my choice, the aforementioned Peruvian girl said, “I think that the one on the bottom row, third one from the right is much better.” She was right, it was perfect.
The attendant started to apply the polish and I looked to my left and said “Gracias.ˆ Her response? “You’re welcome.” Her kindness left me feeling guilty about the previous thirty minutes I had spent being internally annoyed with her. Now I think that her stares were because she was jealous of my American accent just as I was jealous of her beautiful Spanish.
Labels:
Point for Peru
Delivery, Veggies, Mayo & Doormen
Admittedly, I have spent the better part of the last six weeks being overly critical of my new home. As I have waited and waited and waited for news regarding my visa, I have only become more frustrated by the inefficient, mysterious systems of Peru. I am learning that in some parts of the world a stern voice and generous tip can create an array of satisfactory results.
There are plenty of systems and customs in Peru that are completely illogical to my American mind. Why does a city of 9 million people have only one post office? When purchasing items from the pharmacy, why most you bring a slip to the cashier, pay and then take your receipt to the pharmacy to obtain your item? Why is the public transportation so chaotic? Why are law students required to intern some forty, fifty, sixty hours per week?
My list of questions could go on. I do realize that the very things that frustrate me now are the things that will make up my most vivid memories once leaving Peru- like the inconvenient, über efficiency of German office hours.
I am convinced, however, that in some things Peru has gotten it right. These are the things I love:
- 24 hour Pharmacy delivery. Best. Idea. Ever. The idea is simple, call the pharmacy, request a few items, order more than S./ 35 and in thirty minutes the delivery man arrives at your door with contact solution, a receipt and your change, placed in a plastic bag and stapled to your receipt. Amazing.
- Fresh vegetables that are incredibly inexpensive. Last week I went to the grocery store to purchase vegetables for a sandwich: lettuce, avocado, tomatoes and bread. All for just about $2.
- Mayonnaise. Peruvian mayo comes in a plastic pouch that stands upright. Instead of a wide opening like American mayo jars, there is a small, squeeze top opening. No extra utensils required!
- And doormen. I love this type of city living that allows me to come home to a “Buenas tardes, Señorita,” every afternoon. My building has three doormen that rotates on what I believe are twelve hour shifts. They open doors for me, press my floor in the elevator when my hands are full and hand deliver all of my mail.
at
10:58 AM
Delivery, Veggies, Mayo & Doormen
2010-12-20T10:58:00-06:00
Lady in Lima
Point for Peru|Small Comforts|
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Small Comforts
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